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10*1
Chapter 10 Suspension and steering
Contents
Front hub bearings - renewal 3
Rear axle assembly - removal and refitting 17
Front swivel hub assembly - removal and refitting 2
Rear hub assembly - removal and refitting 11
Front suspension and steering check See Chapter 1
Rear hub bearings - renewal 12
Front suspension anti-roll bar - removal and refitting 8
Rear shock absorber - removal, testing and refitting 13
Front suspension anti-roll bar connecting link - removal and refitting 9
Rear suspension anti-roll bar - removal and refitting 16
Front suspension lower arm balljoint - removal and refitting 7
Rear suspension torsion bar - removal and refitting 14
Front suspension lower arm - removal, overhaul and refitting 6
Rear suspension trailing arm - removal and refitting 15
Front suspension strut - overhaul 5
Steering column - removal, inspection and refitting 20
Front suspension strut - removal and refitting 4
Steering gear assembly - removal, overhaul and refitting 22
Front suspension subframe - removal and refitting 10
Steering gear rubber gaiters - renewal 23
General information 1
Steering wheel - removal and refitting 19
Ignition switch/steering column lock - removal and refitting 21
Track rod - removal and refitting 27
Power steering pump - removal and refitting 25
Track rod balljoint - removal and refitting 26
Power steering pump drivebelt check,
Vehicle ride height - checking and adjustment 18
adjustment and renewal See Chapter 1
Wheel alignment and steering angles - general information 28
Power steering fluid level check See Chapter 1
Wheel and tyre maintenance and tyre pressure
Power steering system - bleeding 24
checks See Chapter 1
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
Fairly easy, suitable
Fairly difficult, suitable
Difficult, suitable for
Very difficult,
novice with little
for beginner with
for competent DIY
experienced DIY
suitable for expert DIY
experience
some experience
mechanic
mechanic
or professional
Specifications
Front suspension
Front ride height - fully-laden*:
1124 cc and 1360 cc models 177 10 mm
1580 cc and 1761 cc models 185 10 mm
1905 cc and 1998 cc 8-valve models 167 10 mm
1998 cc 16-valve models 165 10 mm
* Fully-laden - 4 occupants and 40 kg of luggage in the vehicle
Rear suspension
Rear ride height - fully-laden*:
1124 cc and 1360 cc models 201 10 mm
1580 cc models:
Three-door models 189 10 mm
Five-door models 209 1 0 mm
1761 cc models 189 10 mm
1905 cc and 1998 cc 8-valve models 200 10 mm
1998 cc 16-valve models 199 10 mm
* Fully-laden - 4 occupants and 40 kg of luggage in the vehicle
Steering
Power steering fluid type . Dexron type II ATF
Tyres
Tyre size .. 165/70 R 13, 175/65 R 14, 185/60 R 14 or 195/55 R 15 (depending
on model)
Pressures - (tyres cold): Front Rear
165/70 R 13 tyres 2.2 bar (32 psi) 2.2 bar (32 psi)
175/65 R 14 tyres 2.1 bar (30 psi) 2.1 bar (30 psi)
185/60 R 14 tyres* 2.2 bar (32 psi) 2.2 bar (32 psi)
195/55 R 15 tyres* 2.2 bar (32 psi) 2.3 bar (33 psi)
Note: Pressures apply only to original-equipment tyres, and may vary if any other make or type is fitted; check with the tyre manufacturer or
supplier for correct pressures if necessary.
* Models with these tyres have a "space-saver" spare wheel fitted with a smaller tyre. The smaller spare tyre should run at 2.4 bars (35 psi), noting
the vehicle should not be driven at speeds exceeding 100 mph (160 km/h) whilst the spare wheel is fitted.


10*2 Suspension and steering
Roadwheels
Type Pressed-steel or aluminium alloy (depending on model)
Size 5B x 13, 5J x 13, 5.5J x 14 or 6J x 15 (depending on model)
Maximum run-out at rim 1.2 mm
Maximum eccentricity on tyre bead locating surface 0.8 mm
Wheel alignment and steering angles
Front wheel camber angle:
Unladen 0 30' 40'
Fully-laden* 0 40'
Castor angle
Unladen:
Manual steering 0 30' 40'
Power-assisted steering 2 40'
Fully-laden*:
Manual steering 1 30' 40'
Power-assisted steering 3 40'
Steering axis inclination/kingpin inclination 10 45' 40'
Front wheel toe setting:
Unladen
Manual steering 0 to 2 mm (toe-out)
Power-assisted steering -2.5 to -4.5 mm (toe-in)
Fully-laden*:
Manual steering 1 to 3 mm (toe-out)
Power-assisted steering -1 to -3 mm (toe-in)
Rear wheel camber setting -1 40'
Rear wheel toe setting:
Unladen -2 to 2 mm (toe-in/toe-out)
Fully-laden* -2.5 to -6.0 mm (toe-in)
* Fully-laden - 4 occupants and 40 kg of luggage in the vehicle
Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft
Front suspension
Strut-to-swivel hub bolt 55 41
Strut upper mounting bolts 20 15
Strut upper mounting retaining nut 45 33
Lower arm balljoint clamp bolt 40 30
Lower arm balljoint retaining nuts 45 33
Lower arm front pivot bolt 60 44
Lower arm rear pivot bush mounting bolts:
8 mm bolt 27 20
10 mm bolt 55 41
Anti-roll bar (models with anti-roll bar connected to lower arm):
Mounting clamp bolts 55 41
Bar-to-connecting link nuts 30 22
Connecting link-to-bracket bolt 40 30
Bracket-to-lower arm bolts 20 15
Anti-roll bar (models with anti-roll bar connected to strut):
Mounting clamp bolts 55 41
Connecting link nuts 40 30
Subframe mounting bolts 84 62
Rear suspension
Shock absorber upper mounting bolt 75 55
Shock absorber lower mounting bolt 120 89
Rear hub nut:
Models with rear drum brakes 200 148
Models with rear disc brakes 180 133
Torsion bar Torx retaining screw 20 15
Anti-roll bar retaining bracket bolt 35 26
Brake backplate bolts (drum brakes only) 37 27
Rear axle mountings:
Front mounting-to-body nuts 55 41
Front mounting-to-crossmember bolts 70 52
Rear mounting nuts 45 33

Suspension and steering 10*3
Torque wrench settings (continued) Nm lbf ft
Steering
Track rod balljoint-to-swivel hub nut 35 26
Track rod-to-steering rack 50 37
Steering gear mounting bolts 40 30
Steering wheel nut 35 26
Steering column mounting nuts 17 13
Universal joint clamp bolt 25 18
Power-assisted steering gear fluid unions:
Feed pipe 25 18
Return pipe 20 15
Roadwheels
Wheel bolts 90 66
onto the subframe, and is either connected to
movement of the rear axle assembly has the
both lower suspension arms or directly to the
effect of actually turning the rear wheels
1 General information
front suspension struts, depending on the
slightly, to help steer the vehicle in the
model (see illustration).
required direction. This improves the handling
The independent front suspension is of the
The rear suspension is of the independent
of the vehicle when cornering at extreme
MacPherson strut type, incorporating coil
trailing arm type, which consists of two trailing
speeds.
springs and integral telescopic shock
arms, linked by a tubular crossmember.
The steering column has a universal joint
absorbers. The MacPherson struts are
Torsion bars linking the trailing arms are
fitted in the centre of its length, which is
located by transverse lower suspension arms,
situated in front of and behind the
connected to an intermediate shaft having a
which utilise rubber inner mounting bushes,
crossmember, and an anti-roll bar linking the
second universal joint at its lower end. The
and incorporate a balljoint at the outer ends.
arms passes through the centre of the
lower universal joint is clamped to the steering
The front swivel hubs, which carry the wheel
crossmember (see illustration).
gear pinion by means of a clamp bolt (see
bearings, brake calipers and the hub/disc
The complete rear axle assembly is
illustration).
assemblies, are bolted to the MacPherson
mounted onto the vehicle underbody by four
The steering gear is mounted onto the front
struts, and connected to the lower arms via
"self-steering" rubber mountings. These
subframe, and is connected by two track
the balljoints. A front anti-roll bar is fitted to all
mountings are designed to move slightly
rods, with balljoints at their outer ends, to the
models. The anti-roll bar is rubber-mounted
under extreme cornering forces. This
steering arms projecting rearwards from the
1.1 Cross-sectional view of the front suspension
1.2 Cross-sectional view of the rear suspension components
components

10*4 Suspension and steering
2.6 Slacken and remove the bolt securing
the wiring retaining bracket to the swivel
hub
Chapter 9. If not, unscrew the two bolts
securing the brake caliper assembly to the
swivel hub, and slide the caliper assembly off
the disc. Using a piece of wire or string, tie the
caliper to the front suspension coil spring, to
avoid placing any strain on the hydraulic
brake hose. Discard the caliper mounting
bolts - they must be renewed whenever they
are disturbed.
1.4 Cross-sectional view of the steering column and associated components
6 Slacken and remove the bolt securing the
wiring retaining bracket to the top of the
swivel hubs. The track rod ends are threaded,
3 On all 1580 cc and larger-engined models,
swivel hub (see illustration).
to facilitate adjustment.
withdraw the R-clip, and remove the locking
7 On models with ABS, remove the wheel
Power-assisted steering is fitted as
cap from the driveshaft retaining nut.
sensor as described in Chapter 9.
standard on some models, and is available as
4 Refit at least two roadwheel bolts to the
8 On all models, slacken and remove the nut
an option on all others. The hydraulic steering
front hub, and tighten them securely. Have an
securing the steering gear track rod balljoint
system is powered by a belt-driven pump,
assistant firmly depress the brake pedal, to
to the swivel hub, and release the balljoint
which is driven off the crankshaft pulley.
prevent the front hub from rotating, then using
tapered shank using a universal balljoint
a socket and extension bar, slacken and
separator.
remove the driveshaft retaining nut.
2 Front swivel hub assembly -
9 Slacken and remove the three nuts
securing the balljoint to the lower suspension
removal and refitting
A tool to prevent the hub
arm, then withdraw the bolts and free the
rotating can be fabricated
balljoint from the arm (see illustration).
Removal
from two lengths of steel strip
10 Undo the nut and withdraw the swivel
(one long, one short) and a nut
1 Chock the rear wheels, then firmly apply the
and bolt; the nut and bolt forming the
hub-to-suspension strut clamp bolt, noting
handbrake. Jack up the front of the vehicle,
pivot of a forked tool. Bolt the tool to the
which way around it is fitted.
and support it on axle stands. Remove the
hub using two wheel bolts, and hold the
11 Free the swivel hub assembly from the
appropriate front roadwheel.
tool to prevent the hub from rotating as
end of the strut, then release it from the outer
2 On 1124 cc and 1360 cc models, using a
the driveshaft nut is undone (see
constant velocity joint splines, and remove it
hammer and a chisel-nosed tool, tap up the
Chapters, Section 2).
from the vehicle. If the swivel hub is a tight fit
staking securing the driveshaft retaining nut in
on the strut, use a large flat-bladed
position. Note that a new retaining must be
5 If the hub bearings are to be disturbed,
screwdriver to carefully open up the clamp a
used on refitting.
remove the brake disc as described in
little (see illustration).
2.11 Removing the swivel hub assembly.
2.14 On refitting, ensure the swivel hub
2.9 Undo the three lower suspension arm
Note the use of the screwdriver to open up
clamp is aligned with the lug (arrowed) on
balljoint retaining nuts
the hub clamp
the strut prior to inserting the clamp bolt

Suspension and steering 10*5
Refitting
22 On 1580 cc and larger-engined models,
circlip, ensuring that it is correctly located in
engage the locking cap with the driveshaft nut
the groove in the swivel hub.
12 Note that all Nyloc nuts disturbed on
so that one of its cut-outs is aligned with the
9 Securely support the outer face of the hub
removal must be renewed as a matter of
driveshaft hole. Secure the cap with the R-
flange, and locate the swivel hub bearing
course. These nuts have threads which are
clip.
inner race over the end of the hub flange.
pre-coated with locking compound (this is
Press the bearing onto the hub, using a
only effective once), and include the track rod
23 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the
tubular spacer which bears only on the inner
balljoint nut, lower suspension arm balljoint
vehicle to the ground and tighten the
race of the hub bearing, until it seats against
nuts, and the swivel hub clamp bolt nut.
roadwheel bolts to the specified torque.
the hub shoulder. Check that the hub flange
13 Ensure the driveshaft outer constant
rotates freely, and wipe off any excess oil or
velocity joint and hub splines are clean, then
grease.
slide the hub fully onto the driveshaft splines.
3 Front hub bearings - renewal
10 Refit the swivel hub assembly as
14 Slide the hub assembly fully onto the
described in Section 2.
suspension strut, aligning the split in the hub
clamp with the lug on the base of the strut.
Insert the swivel hub-to-suspension strut
Note: The bearing is a sealed, pre-adjusted
clamp bolt from the front side of the strut,
and pre-lubricated, double-row roller type,
4 Front suspension strut -
then fit a new nut to the clamp bolt, and
and is intended to last the car's entire service
removal and refitting
tighten it to the specified torque (see
life without maintenance or attention. Never
illustration).
overtighten the driveshaft nut beyond the
15 Align the balljoint with the lower arm, and
Removal
specified torque wrench setting in an attempt
fit the three retaining bolts. Fit new retaining
to "adjust" the bearing.
1 Chock the rear wheels, apply the
nuts to the bolts, and tighten them to the
handbrake, then jack up the front of the
specified torque.
Note: A press will be required to dismantle
vehicle and support on axle stands. Remove
16 Engage the track rod balljoint in the swivel
and rebuild the assembly; if such a tool is not
the appropriate roadwheel.
hub, then fit a new retaining nut and tighten it
available, a large bench vice and spacers
2 Unscrew the two bolts securing the brake
to the specified torque.
(such as large sockets) will serve as an
caliper to the swivel hub, and discard them;
17 Where necessary, refit the brake disc to
adequate substitute. The bearing's inner races
new bolts must be used on refitting. Slacken
the hub, referring to Chapter 9 for further
are an interference fit on the hub; if the inner
and remove the bolt securing the wiring
information. If the threads of the new caliper
race remains on the hub when it is pressed
retaining bracket to the swivel hub, then slide
mounting bolts are not already pre-coated
out of the hub carrier, a knife-edged bearing
the caliper assembly off the disc. Using a
with locking compound, apply a suitable
puller will be required to remove it.
piece of wire or string, tie the caliper to the
locking compound to them. Slide the caliper
front suspension lower arm, to avoid placing
assembly into position over the disc, then fit
1 Remove the swivel hub assembly as
any strain on the hydraulic brake hose.
the mounting bolts and tighten them to the
described in Section 2.
3 On models where the anti-roll bar is
specified torque (see Chapter 9).
2 Support the swivel hub securely on blocks
connected to the suspension strut body, undo
18 Where necessary, refit the ABS wheel
or in a vice. Using a tubular spacer which
the nut and washer securing the connecting
sensor as described in Chapter 9.
bears only on the inner end of the hub flange,
link to the strut, and position the link clear of
19 Refit the wiring retaining bracket to the
press the hub flange out of the bearing. If the
the strut (see illustration). Discard the nut - a
top of the swivel hub, and tighten its retaining
bearing's outboard inner race remains on the
new one must be used on refitting.
bolt securely.
hub, remove it using a bearing puller (see note
4 Undo the nut and withdraw the swivel hub-
20 Lubricate the inner face and threads of
above).
to-suspension strut clamp bolt, noting which
the driveshaft retaining nut with clean engine
way around it is fitted. Discard the nut - a new
3 Extract the bearing retaining circlip from the
oil, and refit it to the end of the driveshaft. Use
one must be used on refitting.
inner end of the swivel hub assembly (see
the method employed on removal to prevent
illustration).
5 Slacken and remove the two suspension
the hub from rotating, and tighten the
strut upper mounting bolts.
driveshaft retaining nut to the specified torque
4 Where necessary, refit the inner race back
6 Release the strut from the swivel hub, and
(see Chapter 8). Check that the hub rotates
in position over the ball cage, and securely
withdraw it from under the wheel arch. If the
freely.
support the inner face of the swivel hub.
Using a tubular spacer which bears only on
21 On 1124 cc and 1360 cc models, stake
the inner race, press the complete bearing
the nut firmly into the driveshaft grooves using
assembly out of the swivel hub.
a hammer and punch.
5 Thoroughly clean the hub and swivel hub,
removing all traces of dirt and grease, and
polish away any burrs or raised edges which
might hinder reassembly. Check both for
cracks or any other signs of wear or damage,
and renew them if necessary. Renew the
circlip, regardless of its apparent condition.
6 On reassembly, apply a light film of oil to
the bearing outer race and hub flange shaft, to
aid installation of the bearing.
7 Securely support the swivel hub, and locate
the bearing in the hub. Press the bearing fully
into position, ensuring that it enters the hub
squarely, using a tubular spacer which bears
only on the bearing outer race.
4.3 Where the anti-roll bar is linked to the
3.3 Front hub bearing retaining circlip
8 Once the bearing is correctly seated,
strut, undo the retaining nut and free the
secure the bearing in position with the new
connecting link from the strut body

10*6 Suspension and steering
Removing the front suspension strut
4.8 Tighten the suspension strut upper
5.9a Ensure all components are clean and
mounting bolts to the specified torque.
dry, then slide the rubber damper stop . . .
Note upper mounting locating pin
swivel hub is a tight fit on the strut, carefully
(arrowed)
dismantled, examine all the components for
open up the clamp a little using a large flat-
wear, damage or deformation, and check the
bladed screwdriver (see illustration).
bearing for smoothness of operation. Renew
any of the components as necessary.
Refitting
5 Front suspension strut -
6 Examine the strut for signs of fluid leakage.
overhaul
7 Manoeuvre the strut assembly into position,
Check the strut piston for signs of pitting
ensuring that the top mounting plate locating
along its entire length, and check the strut
Warning: Before attempting to
pin is correctly located in its hole. Engage the
body for signs of damage. While holding it in
dismantle the front suspension
lower end of the strut with the swivel hub,
an upright position, test the operation of the
strut, a suitable tool to hold the
aligning the split in the hub clamp with the lug
strut by moving the piston through a full
coil spring in compression must be
on the base of the strut.
stroke, and then through short strokes of 50
obtained. Adjustable coil spring
8 Insert the two strut upper mounting bolts,
to 100 mm. In both cases, the resistance felt
compressors are readily-available, and are
and tighten them to the specified torque (see
should be smooth and continuous. If the
recommended for this operation. Any
illustration).
resistance is jerky, or uneven, or if there is any
attempt to dismantle the strut without
visible sign of wear or damage to the strut,
9 Insert the swivel hub-to-suspension strut
such a tool is likely to result in damage or
renewal is necessary.
clamp bolt from the front side of the strut. Fit
personal injury.
7 If any doubt exists about the condition of
a new nut to the clamp bolt, and tighten it to
the coil spring, carefully remove the spring
the specified torque.
1 With the strut removed from the car as
compressors, and check the spring for
10 Where necessary, refit the anti-roll bar
described in Section 4, clean away all external
distortion and signs of cracking. Renew the
connecting link to the strut. Fit a new nut to
dirt, then mount it upright in a vice.
spring if it is damaged or distorted, or if there
the connecting link, and tighten it to the
2 Fit the spring compressor, and compress
is any doubt as to its condition.
specified torque.
the coil spring until all tension is relieved from
8 Inspect all other components for signs of
11 Slide the brake caliper into position over
the upper mounting plate.
damage or deterioration, and renew any that
the disc. If the threads of the new caliper
3 Remove the rubber cap, then slacken the
are suspect.
mounting bolts are not already pre-coated
upper mounting retaining nut whilst retaining
9 To reassemble the strut, follow the
with locking compound, apply a suitable
the strut piston with an Allen key.
accompanying photos, beginning with
locking compound to them. Install the bolts
4 Remove the nut and washer, then lift off the
illustration 5.9a. Be sure to stay in order, and
and tighten them to the specified torque (see
collar, mounting plate, bearing, upper spring
carefully read the caption underneath each
Chapter 9).
seat and flat washer. Remove the coil spring,
(see illustrations).
12 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the
then slide off the damper piston dust cover
10 Refit the rubber cap to the top of the strut
vehicle to the ground and tighten the
and rubber damper stop.
piston, then refit the strut to the vehicle as
roadwheel bolts to the specified torque.
5 With the strut assembly now completely
described in Section 4.
5.9b . . . and dust cover into position on
5.9c Refit the coil spring, ensuring the
5.9d Fit the flat washer to the top of the
the strut
spring end is correctly located against its
strut piston . . .
stop on the lower seat (arrowed)

Suspension and steering 10*7
5.9e . . . then locate the upper spring seat
5.9f Refit the bearing to the upper spring
on the spring, ensuring that the spring seat
seat, ensuring that it is fitted the correct 5.9g Locate the upper mounting plate on
stop (arrowed) is correctly located against
way around the spring s e a t . . .
the spring end
6 Front suspension lower arm -
removal, overhaul and refitting
Removal
1 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply the
handbrake, then jack up the front of the
vehicle and support on axle stands. Remove
the appropriate front roadwheel.
2 On models where the anti-roll bar is
mounted onto the lower suspension arm,
slacken and remove the two nuts securing the
5.9i Refit the washer and upper mounting
mounting bracket to the lower arm, then
5.9h . . . and refit the collar to the retaining nut, and tighten the nut to the
withdraw then retaining bolts and free the
mounting plate specified torque
bracket from the arm. Discard the nuts - new
ones must be used on refitting.
3 Slacken and remove the nut, then withdraw
the lower arm balljoint clamp bolt from the
swivel hub (see illustration). Discard the nut -
a new one must be used on refitting.
4 Lever the arm downwards to release the
balljoint from the swivel hub, and remove the
protector plate which is fitted to the balljoint
shank (see illustration).
5
Slacken and remove the lower arm front
pivot bolt and nut, then undo the two bolts
securing the rear mounting bush to the
subframe (the larger of which is also the anti-
roll bar mounting clamp bolt), and recover the
5.9j Ensure that the spring ends are still 5.9k With the compressors removed, push
nut from the top of the subframe. Manoeuvre
correctly located against the seat stops, the rubber bump stop and gaiter upwards
the lower arm assembly out from underneath
then release the spring compressors and until they are correctly seated inside the
the vehicle (see illustrations).
remove them from the strut upper mounting plate
6.4 Release the balljoint from the swivel
6.3 Removing the lower suspension arm hub, and remove the protector plate from
6.5a Slacken and remove the lower
balljoint clamp bolt the balljoint shank
suspension arm front pivot b o l t . . .

10*8 Suspension and steering
6.12 With the vehicle resting on its wheels,
6.5b . . . and the two rear mounting bush
6.5c . . . then remove the lower arm from
tighten the lower arm front pivot bolt to the
bolts (second bolt arrowed)...
the vehicle
specified torque setting
Overhaul
11 Where necessary, align the anti-roll bar
bolts. Fit new nuts to the bolts, and tighten
6 Thoroughly clean the lower arm and the
mounting bracket with the lower arm, and
them to the specified torque.
area around the arm mountings, removing all
insert its retaining bolts. Fit new nuts to the
5 Carry out the operations described in
traces of dirt and underseal if necessary, then
bolts, and tighten them to the specified
paragraphs 10 to 12 of Section 6.
check carefully for cracks, distortion or any
torque.
other signs of wear or damage, paying
12 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the
8 Front suspension anti-roll
particular attention to the pivot bushes, and
vehicle and tighten the roadwheel bolts to the
bar - removal and refitting
renew components as necessary.
specified torque. Rock the vehicle to settle the
7 Check that the lower arm balljoint moves
disturbed components in position, then
freely, without any sign of roughness; check
tighten the lower arm front pivot bolt to the
Removal
also that the balljoint gaiter shows no sign of
specified torque (see illustration).
1 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply the
deterioration, and is free from cracks and
handbrake, then jack up the front of the
splits. If renewal is necessary, slacken and
vehicle and support on axle stands. Remove
7 Front suspension lower arm
remove its retaining bolts, and remove the
both front roadwheels.
balljoint - removal and refitting
balljoint from the arm. Fit the new balljoint,
2 On models where the anti-roll bar is
and insert its retaining bolts. Fit new retaining
mounted onto the lower suspension arm,
nuts to the bolts, and tighten them to the
Removal
slacken and remove the two nuts and bolts
specified torque.
1 Release the balljoint from the swivel hub as
securing the mounting bracket to the left-
8 Examine the shank of the pivot bolt for
described in Section 6, paragraphs 1 to 4.
hand lower arm, then undo the nut securing
signs of wear or scoring, and renew if
2 Slacken and remove the three nuts, then
the connecting link to the anti-roll bar, and
necessary.
withdraw the balljoint retaining bolts and
remove the connecting link and bracket
Refitting
remove the balljoint from the lower arm (see
assembly. Repeat the procedure on the right-
9 Manoeuvre the lower arm assembly into
illustrations). Discard the nuts - new ones
hand side.
position, and refit the front pivot bolt,
must be used on refitting.
3 On models where the anti-roll bar is
tightening it finger-tight only. Refit the two
3 Check that the lower arm balljoint moves
connected to the suspension strut body, undo
rear pivot bush retaining bolts, and tighten
freely, without any sign of roughness. Check
the nut and washer securing the left-hand
both to their specified torque settings.
also that the balljoint gaiter shows no sign of
connecting link to the anti-roll bar, and
10 Refit the protector plate to the lower arm
deterioration, and is free from cracks and
position the link clear of the bar. Repeat the
balljoint, then locate the balljoint shank in the
splits. Renew worn or damaged components
procedure on the right-hand side.
swivel hub, ensuring that the lug on the
as necessary.
4 On models with power steering, using
protector plate is correctly located in the
brake hose clamps, clamp both the supply
clamp split. Insert the balljoint clamp bolt,
Refitting
and return hoses near the power steering fluid
then fit the new retaining nut and tighten it to
4 Locate the balljoint in the end of the
reservoir. This will minimise fluid loss during
the specified torque.
suspension arm, and insert the three retaining
subsequent operations. Mark the unions to
ensure they are correctly positioned on
reassembly, then unscrew the feed and return
pipe union nuts from the steering gear
assembly; be prepared for fluid spillage, and
position a suitable container beneath the
pipes whilst unscrewing the union nuts.
Disconnect both pipes, and plug the pipe
ends and steering gear orifices, to prevent
excessive fluid leakage and the entry of dirt
into the hydraulic system.
5 On all models, using a hammer and punch,
white paint or similar, mark the exact
relationship between the steering intermediate
shaft universal joint and the steering gear
drive pinion. Slacken and remove the clamp
7.2a Remove the three retaining bolts . . .
7.2b . . . and remove the lower arm
bolt securing the joint to the pinion, and free
balljoint
the intermediate shaft from the steering gear.

Suspension and steering 10*9
8.10 Slacken and remove the bolt and nut
9.3a Anti-roll bar connecting link lower
9.3b . . . and upper retaining nut - models
(arrowed) and remove the anti-roll bar
retaining n u t . . .
with the anti-roll bar connected to the
mounting clamp
suspension strut body
6 Slacken and remove the nut securing the
tighten the mounting clamp retaining bolts to
connected to the strut, slacken and remove
left-hand steering gear track rod balljoint to
the specified torque.
the upper and lower connecting link retaining
the swivel hub, and release the balljoint
15 The remainder of the refitting is a reversal
nuts and washers, and remove the link from
tapered shank using a universal balljoint
of the removal procedure, noting the following
the vehicle (see illustrations).
separator. Repeat the procedure on the right-
points:
hand side.
4 Examine the connecting link for signs of
(a) All Nyloc nuts disturbed on removal must
damage, paying particular attention to the
7 On 1580 cc and larger-engined models with
be renewed as a matter of course. These
mounting bushes or balljoints (as applicable),
manual transmission, using a large
nuts have threads which are pre-coated
and renew if necessary. It is not possible to
screwdriver, carefully lever the three
with locking compound (this is only
renew the bushes or balljoints separately.
gearchange linkage link rods off their
effective once), and include the track rod
Note that the connecting link retaining nuts
balljoints on the transmission unit.
balljoint nuts, connecting link nuts, engine
must be renewed as a matter of course.
8 Slacken and remove the engine/trans-
mounting bolt nut, and the intermediate
mission rear mounting through-bolt and nut.
shaft clamp bolt nut. The intermediate
Refitting
9 Slacken and remove the four front
shaft clamp bolt nut is retained by a metal
5 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
subframe mounting bolts which are situated
cage; release the cage retaining tangs,
procedure, using new retaining nuts and
at the rear of the subframe. Loosen the two
then remove the old nut from inside the
tightening them to the specified torque
front subframe mounting bolts by a few turns,
cage and install the new one. Refit the
setting.
until it is possible to lower the rear edge of the
cage to the shaft, and secure it in position
subframe approximately 65 mm. Wedge a
with the retaining tangs.
block of wood between the rear of the
10 Front suspension subframe -
(b) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
subframe and the vehicle underbody, to hold
removal and refitting
torque settings (where given).
the subframe in this position.
(c) Align the marks made on removal when
10 Slacken the two anti-roll bar mounting
reconnecting the intermediate shaft to the
Removal
clamp retaining bolts, and recover the nuts
steering gear splines.
1 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply the
from the top of the clamps (see illustration).
(d) On models with power steering, bleed the
handbrake, then jack up the front of the
Remove both clamps from the subframe.
hydraulic system as described in Sec-
vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove
11 Manoeuvre the anti-roll bar out from
tion 24.
both front roadwheels.
underneath the vehicle, and remove the
(e) On completion check and, if necessary,
2 Remove the anti-roll bar connecting links as
mounting bushes from the bar.
adjust the front wheel alignment as
described in Section 9.
12 Carefully examine the anti-roll bar
described in Section 28.
3 Slacken and remove the rear
components for signs of wear, damage or
engine/transmission through-bolt and nut,
deterioration, paying particular attention to
then undo the nut and bolt securing the
the mounting bushes. Renew worn
9 Front suspension anti-roll bar
mounting bracket to the subframe and
components as necessary.
connecting link -
remove the bracket.
removal and refitting
4 Slacken and remove the three nuts, then
Refitting
withdraw the balljoint retaining bolts and
disengage the left-hand balljoint from the
13 Fit the rubber mounting bushes to the
Removal
lower arm. Repeat the procedure on the right-
anti-roll bar, ensuring that the recess on the
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
hand side.
inside of each bush engages with the lugs on
the front of the car and support it on axle
5 Slacken the steering gear mounting bolts,
the anti-roll bar. Rotate each bush so that its
stands.
and recover the nuts. Withdraw the mounting
marking is aligned with the paint mark on the
2 On models where the anti-roll bar is
bolts, and recover the spacers from the
anti-roll bar.
connected to the lower suspension arms,
subframe apertures.
14 Offer up the anti-roll bar, and manoeuvre
slacken and remove the nut and bolt securing
6 On 1580 cc and larger-engined models with
it into position on the subframe. Refit the
the link to the lower arm bracket, then undo
manual transmission, using a large
mounting clamps, ensuring that their ends are
the nut and washer securing the link to the
screwdriver, carefully lever the three
correctly located in the hooks on the
anti-roll bar. Disengage the connecting link
gearchange linkage link rods off their
subframe, and refit the retaining bolts and
from the end of the anti-roll bar, and remove it
balljoints on the transmission unit. Slacken
nuts. Ensure that the bush markings are still
from the vehicle.
and remove the pivot bolt securing the
aligned with the paint marks on the bars, then
3 On models where the anti-roll bar is
selector rod to the gearchange lever.

10*10 Suspension and steering
10.7 Power steering pipe-to-subframe
10.9a Front subframe left-hand rear
10.9b . . . and front mounting bolt
retaining clip
mounting bolts (arrowed)...
7 On models with power steering, undo the
5 Using a puller, draw the hub assembly of
nut securing the steering gear pipe to its
11 Rear hub assembly -
the stub axle, along with the outer bearing
mounting bracket on the subframe, and free
removal and refitting
race (see illustration). With the hub removed,
both pipes from any subframe retaining clips
use the puller to draw the inner bearing race
(see illustration).
off the stub axle, then remove the hub spacer,
8 On right-hand-drive models, undo the nut
Rear drum brakes
noting which way around it is fitted.
securing the clutch cable retaining clip to the
1 On models with rear drum brakes, the rear
6 Refit the races to the hub bearing, and
subframe, and disengage the cable from its
hub is an integral part of the brake drum.
check the hub bearing for signs of roughness.
retaining clips on either side of the subframe.
Refer to Chapter 9 for drum removal and
It is recommended that the bearing should be
9 Slacken and remove the four rear front
refitting details.
renewed as a matter of course, as it is likely to
subframe mounting bolts and the two front
have been damaged during removal. This
mounting bolts, then carefully lower the
means that the complete hub assembly must
subframe assembly out of position and
Rear disc brakes
be renewed, since it is not possible to obtain
remove it from underneath the vehicle (see
Note: Do not remove the hub assembly unless
the bearing separately.
illustrations). On models with power steering,
it is absolutely necessary. A puller will be
7 With the hub removed, examine the stub
take great care to ensure the subframe
required to draw the hub assembly off the
axle shaft for signs of wear or damage, and if
assembly does not catch the power steering
stub axle, and the hub bearing will almost
necessary renew it. The stub axle is an
pipes as it is lowered out of position.
certainly be damaged by the removal
interference fit in the trailing arm, and can
Refitting
procedure.
either be tapped out of position, using a
10 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
hammer and a soft-metal drift, or pushed out
Removal
procedure, noting the following points:
using a heavy-duty bearing puller. When
(a) All Nyloc nuts disturbed on removal must
2 Remove the rear brake disc as described in
installing the new stub axle, align its splines
be renewed as a matter of course. These
Chapter 9.
with those of the trailing arm, and drift or
nuts have threads which are pre-coated
3 Using a hammer and a large flat-bladed
press it fully into position in the arm.
with locking compound (this is only
screwdriver, carefully tap and prise the cap
effective once), and include the
out of the centre of the hub. Discard the cap -
connecting link nuts, lower arm balljoint
a new one must be used on refitting. Using a
Refitting
nuts, engine mounting bolt nuts and
hammer and a chisel-nosed tool, tap up the
8 Lubricate the stub axle shaft with clean
steering gear bolt nuts.
staking securing the hub retaining nut to the
engine oil, then slide on the spacer, ensuring it
(b) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
groove in the stub axle (see illustrations).
is fitted the correct way round.
torque settings (where given).
4 Using a socket and long bar, slacken and
9 Fit the new bearing inner race, and tap it
(c) On completion check and, if necessary,
remove the rear hub nut, and withdraw the
fully onto the stub axle using a hammer and a
adjust the front wheel alignment as
thrustwasher. Discard the hub nut - a new nut
tubular drift which bears only on the flat inside
described in Section 28.
must used on refitting.
edge of the race.
11.3a Tap off the hub centre cap . . .
11.3b . . . then tap up the rear hub staking
11.5 Use a puller to draw the hub
using a hammer and suitable punch
assembly off the stub axle